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Feb 21

Making Cuffs Great Again???

Uncategorized

As is the nature of men’s fashion, all of these mythical tales begin with a very real function and purpose.

For example, among the origin myths:

  • Cuffs started with men rolling up their trousers to avoid getting mud splashed on them when roads were still unpaved.
  • Men used trouser cuffs to catch the ashes from their cigarettes, before there were proper ashtrays in places like trains and public waiting rooms.
  • King Edward VII hated getting the bottom of his trousers wet, so he started to roll them. One particularly rainy season he had his tailor sew them permanently rolled, which caught on with men at large.
  • Parents used cuffs to extend the life of children’s clothes by buying pants that were too long, cuffing the legs and then unrolling them as the child grew taller.
  • Cuffs were invented by tailors for men with chunky thighs, to add body to the bottom of the trousers and detract from the imbalance of shape between the upper and lower legs.
  • Cuffs were invented by fashion designers to add weight to the bottom of the trouser, improving the overall drape and line of the pant on models strutting down the catwalk.
  • As World War II approached, cuffs on trousers were actually prohibited in order to save fabric. Flaps on coat pockets were also prohibited for the same reason. (This is true). As a reaction, cuffs became a symbol of access and wealth.

Whether or not we can be certain about where they came from, today cuffed trousers are largely a personal style preference, which is why we offer our custom trousers with or without them.

Generally, we advise on cuffs for trousers that are cut from heavier weight fabrics which are more likely to be worn with boots and footwear with chunkier soles.

Jan 24

Can I Wear a Pinstriped Suit Yet?

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Pinstripe suits are a good business choice for anyone. Chalk stripes are among my favorites (featured here) assuming they’re in a conservative color like charcoal or navy. If you’re in law,politics, or finance in the Triangle, a more subtle pinstripe is the go-to. Leave the black pinstripes and stark chalk stripes for New York, unless you’re 100% able to pull it off with out being off-putting…

Please avoid the cheap looking pinstriped “suits” (slacks are a different matter) that have stripes less than an 1/8inch apart. I see these all the time at the latest department store sale and clearance rack. Not to be a jerk, but please know that some patterns just look cheap and ill-timed, and lastly dude, its usually $89 for a reason. Just call us or text us a picture and one of our stylists/fit advisors can advise you-its free.

Fun Fact: Did you know that the pinstripe suit is theorized to have originated from banking uniforms? One director of a Saville Row tailoring house states  “In the 19th Century on the High Street, striped trousers were worn in the city with a morning coat, and each bank identified themselves with a different type of stripe” .

Lastly, do remember that pinestriped ensembles are slightly less malleable in terms of what shirt/tie you can pair. Your best bet is to go with ancrisp white shirt featuring a spread collar, patterned tie (NOT geometric shapes or stripes) and a smart pair of captoe or wing-tipped oxfords. Text our iStyling number at 919.951.4755 for details on where to grab a pair!

 

Cheers

Brian

 

“Your Tailor Should Always Be More Vain Than You”

Jan 19

How are Suits supposed to Fit Anyway?

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Lets take it from the top literally. The online custom suit wars are heating up and we’re seeing a lot of fallen soldiers in the multiple battles between fit, price, and quality. We offer custom JHilburn suits for guys however when you’re in a store like JosABank ,JCrew, Banana Republic or Men's Warehouse, what do you look for?

Shoulders

PLEASE consult with us before your purchase a suit more than two sizes too big. Your suit should fit your shoulders straight on, or just about flush with your shoulder's head. This ensures the chest plate in your suit pairs well with your frame. Also, if you’re not 6’2 and like a more modern looking suit, purchase R (regular) lengths. This will make a taller guy's suit come across more modern and open up sizing options because every shop may not carry a wide variety of L (long) sizes.

Sleeves

Don’t have the waist of your jacket tailored without considering the arm taper. 95% of men's sport blazers ad suit jackets we see need to be tapered. Does it really make sense to have a tapered body when the sleeves are billowing?

Jacket Length

Your jacket length should meet (-/+.5 inch) your hand' thumb joint, closest to your thumb nail. At GTDR we shorten and add the natural curve back into the jacket.

Trousers

Trousers should fit well, and should hug your seat, hips, and thighs - not squeeze. Always test the comfort out by sitting down in the trouser. If you feel them squeezing your body in the sitting position, they may rip during normal day to day use or while you’re at the next wedding dancing to Uptown Funk. Trousers from a leg diameter perspective should measure about 7.25- 8 inches wide from the side view. This is for normal work/dress attire. Anything under 7 inches is basically skinny and may not be as versatile as needed.

Length-wise, slacks should not fall lower than a half break. Trousers that are too long come across as frumpy and sloppy. Finally, cuffs belong to pleats and flat front trousers have plain hems. I am seeing a resurgence of pleats in Italian fashion circles like Pitti Uomo and have some bespoke trousers samples being stuck to showcase at our shop in the future, stay tuned!


Dec 07

Build Your Holiday Party Attire like this…

Clothing , Styling

the well dressed man fall

So here we are folks, the crescendo of holiday fashion and attire extravagance. You will find the well dressed individual at the office Christmas Party, office Holiday Party, Christmas Eve Party, Christmas ... zzzzZZzzZZZ 

Okay, I’m back…

Check it out, you’re going to rock this years holiday party right?? But first, please loose those damn STEVE MADDENS & ancient Colehaans that’re creasing across the toe and look like you’ve tracked through the rust belt… By the way, I’m talking to ladies and gents believe it or not.


My friend, you need to be elegant and worldly this year in your attire; have a bit of panache this year.. You need to build your”Go-To” items arsenal. So what the hell should you do??

Shirt


Please get your shirts tailored for God sake. A simple browse of Glenwood South Tailor's instagram page and you can see what I’ve encountered on my daily grind - its rough, but repairable. Bare minimum - Get the sleeves tapered and darts sewn in the back-Please?

Trouser


Please have them tapered, not too tight though. They should be between 7-8.5 inches wide (holding your trousers sideways) this way you save money on purchasing new slacks. Suitsupply and Jcrew trousers require the least amount of alterations, usually less than $50. The Bowery Classic is a very sharp choice.  When guys come into our shop we suggest these two basic for your suits and trousers. We do this all the time and taper both seams for a balanced front and side appearance.

Nov 05

Save a Waxed Cotton Jacket with Nikwax Faster and Easier

Clothing , Clothing Care

Waxed Cotton.  You probably have it and don’t even realize it.

Belstaff makes a lot of iconic jackets.  They are cotton but they are waterproof thanks to a heavy coating of wax.  Normally you have to either have your jacket rewaxed or go through a labor intensive process of doing it yourself.

Recently we found Nikwax on Amazon.  This solution is cheaper and faster than Belstaff’s on $35 can of wax.

So save yourself some time and money by keeping your waxed cotton jacket fresh and waterproof!

Sep 30

Fall is HERE! Know How to Dress for It.

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I know, I know. It still feels like Summer: it’s hot, you’re sweaty, and Fall seems the furthest thing away.

Believe me, it’s not.

Don’t get caught in sudden Fall weather unprepared to look your best. It may be a pain, but colder weather brings about opportunities for handsome dress and those fabrics like flannel, wool, and tweed. That being said, here’s some tips to get you started on your Fall wardrobe.

  1. Thicker fabric doesn’t have to be drab. Dress out! Layering is your best friend and nothing pairs nicer than patterns that stand out against the typical muted grays and browns you find in retail store overcoats and jackets.
  1. It’s flannel time. Your clothes are heavy and the last thing you want is for them to be scratchy to boot. Flannel provides a softer alternative and has been representative of Fall forever. Make sure you have some carded flannel jackets and trousers to keep you cozy, comfortable, and warm (especially gray!).
  1. Know your season. Fall colors are generally brown, red, purple, mauve, blue, and tan.
  1. Some say they bring the whole outfit together. Whether you believe that or not, fall ties are essential. Summer ties have come and gone and now it’s time, and opportunity, to bring about those knit ties, whether silk, wool, or cashmere. As always, keep it proportional and possibly muted.
  1. Finish your outfit with a handsome pair of shoes. Now the colors of red, tan, or green certainly mix will in the fall season, but my favorite is brown. There are so many different shades to work with and it is clean and suits (pun intended) well with many, many fall outfits.

I could say more on the subject, and there are certainly more tips to bring together a fall outfit so precisely, whether it be with a boutonniere or a silk scarf, or even an overcoat. However, these 5 are what I find most important to remember.

Still not sure how to make this work?  Give us a call for all your personal styling and alterations – Dress Well and Win

Jul 23

Custom Alterations You Say??

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So what are custom alterations? Well, custom alterations are inspired by custom clothing for starters. I coined this term several years ago and never knew it was a thing. Before I knew what they were, I loved a wide collar (cutaway) on my power shirts (more on those later) because it stood out and mimicked what the smart British bankers wore on the latest BBC interview. Circa 2000, I couldn’t afford custom clothing with the cutaway collar or a tailored cut so I took it to the local tailor shop and said, “can you do this?”

I was obliged, yet without any guidance or consultation about my options or the appropriate tie knot for this. This is indeed “custom” and to a degree bespoke. Custom alterations run the gambit, things you can do:

-Tailor the sides of your dress shirt

-Taper the arms of your dress shirt

-Add darts to your dress shirt

-Add flutter sleeves to a dress/gown

-Add colored piping to a ladies suit coat

-Completely redesign a ladies dress or highconsign (high-end consignment) pieces.

-Remove pleats from your trousers (results will vary)

-Adding double vents to a non-vented sport-coat etc..

Here at GTDR we’re cooking up some really sexy custom tailoring options beyond the aforementioned list, stay tuned!

 

 

Jul 11

It’s Seersucker Sunday!

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If you have been outside lately you would know that it is HOT!! Wearing a seersucker suit is a great way to stay cool through this dreadful summer weather. You might typically avoid doing so because you are not sure how to wear one exactly. Don't worry- we are here to help!

What is Seersucker?

Seersucker is a cotton fabric that has a texture with a bumpy appearance. They are typically not lined or have a thin lining which allows the body to stay cool. ​It is actually a slow and expensive process to make the fabric so it is not made by many manufacturers. You can find one at Nordstrom, Brooks Brothers, and JoS. A. Bank.

When to Wear a Seersucker Suit

Seersucker suits are great for the warmer weather and occasions during the summer like outdoor weddings, get-togethers, and beach parties. These suits have a more casual look so they are not best for highly professional settings.

How to Wear It

Because the material is so soft if the suit does not fit, it will look droopy and unappealing. In order for it to not hang loose and look like a pair of striped pajamas, it is important to get it tailored. For a great look, a seersucker suit can be worn with a bow tie.

​Be smart by staying cooler this summer with a seersucker suit!

Jul 07

“Bro, I don’t have to dress up for work; it’s casual”

Uncategorized

*Sigh*

I’ll get right to it. Regardless if your workplace is dressy or casual, you’re being observed-or not. Did you catch it??

As a former tech account executive, I know how the digital workplace can seduce you into thinking its okay to wear sweats and Reefs to work. I assure you that if your goal is to move up the ladder…

Cut it out.

First off,  I don’t tell my tech professional clients to dress up, I tell them to dress well. Dressing well begins with being neat. I know, its boring but… no.  Being neat really says a lot about you and how much you value your perception. This goes for men and women.

Tips/Tricks:

Get your shirts tailored: An ill-fitting shirt comes across as disheveled and doesn’t really do anything for you. Having a good tailor/alterations pro taper the sleeves and sides really makes a work of difference.

Get your pants hemmed- PLEASE: Guys in Raleigh for some reason have a really rough time with trouser length. For slacks there are full, medium, and shallow breaks. The “break” refers to the amount of fabric that collects over your shoe, as you can imagine, a lot of fabric indeed looks shabby.

Give your jeans/trousers a tapered leg: I did not say tight or skinny- I said tapered. A good alterations pro will ask certain questions about your lifestyle and wardrobe while doing this- or recommend against it. A tapered leg updates the look in most cases and staves off the need to purchase new slacks/jeans!

That’s enough for now.

rsz_pull-off-smart-casual-work-street-style

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